Emerging from the early Middle Ages, on the inclines of the Molinatico Mountain and on the confluence of the River Verde with the river Magra, Pontremoli maintains its old worldly charm on the foot of the passage to Cisa.
According to Ludovico Muratori, the name Pontremoli originates from the word “ Ponte tremolante” , (bridge which tremors), which was constructed over the river Magra a few hundred meters away from where it unites with the river Verde. The name Pontremoli first appears in Sigericos itinerary, when on his return from Rome in 990ad, the Archbishop records the locations of his stops. The history of Pontremoli clearly indicates that it was born between the passages of roads and the two rivers.
For those who descend from the Passo della Cisa, you will enter Pontremoli from either Porta Parma or Porta Sommorgo.
The severe portal, dominated by mediaeval towers, is the preface to the Church of San Niccolò. It is here where the Guelph spirit of the town is contained and it is here where religion keeps alive many popular traditions. The grotesque masks which one finds on the portals continue to repel the evil spirits, which today represent illnesses ,whilst in previous times signified the enemies who for centuries travelled though the Via Francigena.
From San Niccolò one enters the Piazza del Duomo, where one finds the elegant Episcopal building and the imposing white marble façade of the Cathedral. The Episcopal building dates back to the eighth century and is still today closely linked to its religious past.
Looking down on this is the bell tower. This majestic tower symbolizes of the people of Pontremoli spread thoughout the world.
The bell tower was indeed built during the second half of the sixth century, upon the mediaeval ‘Cacciaguerra’ tower on the request of Castruccio Castracani of Antelminelli in 1322 in order to stop the war between the Guelph’ and Ghibellini’. To stop the frequent and violent fights between these two, Castruccio had a curtain fortified by three towers built to secure the inhabitants between the river Magra and Verde.
Facing south one finds the Piazza Della Repubblica and the Ghibelline area of Pontremoli. Here in this Piazza one finds the elegant entrance to the Municipality, the neoclassical Court building, the fine baroque style Pavesi building and the grand Bocconi house. Every year during the summer season concerts and exhibitions take place here and the winner of the prestigious Premio Barcarella also gets announced here. This prize dates back to when the booksellers of Pontremoli travelled though out Italy, which was a unique phenomenon.
In 1953 the first Bancarella prize was won by Hemingway with his novel ‘The old and the sea’ , anticipating his Nobel prize (he also won it with Pasternak, Doctor Zivago, Singer and the Moscat family). The success of this prize is due to the booksellers who promote the winning book.
Continuing along the streets lined with elegant buildings, one arrives at the confluence of the two rivers where a prompt tower rises, leading to the doorway of the Casotto. This crenellated tower dominates a beautiful bridge which escorts you from the historic centre towards the Caldana and looks towards the river Magra which heads towards the sea. Nearby one also finds the imposing medieval tower of Castelnuovo and the Church of Nostra Donna which dates back to the eighth century and is said to protect the very bridge from where the name Pontremoli originates from.
Once again mediaeval and baroque styles happily co-exist in a town where during the seventh and eighth century numerous Churchs, Palaces and general works of art were acquired. It is during this period when Pontremoli being an important centre for trade between the Free port of Livorno and the padana region, renewed itself with works by local artisans and artists from nearby regions. It was from here that a taste for a sober baroque style in architecture was born and continued to gain in its own personal style. A noble form of building was born with court yards and connecting arches, where the artistic talents of the artists highlighted the architectural beauty of the ample galleries, steps and halls. In the Piagnaro Castel, which was recently restored, one finds the museum of the Statue Stele which is the main exhibition in Lunigianana. In this region, whose name originates from the Roman colony of Luni, a humble population between prehistory and protohistory, left images of celtic style armed warriors and females of great femininity sculpted in stone.
The pantheon of the ancient people of Liguria is gathered and exhibited here, in this very evocative environment, a somber and just layout emphasizes the character of each and every sculpture, leaving them immersed in an light which evokes the mystery of their origins.